Cycling across France: Cardiff - Portsmouth -> Saint Malo - Marseille
Goal
And so it’s time for the Summer 2026 tour. After considering Spain and indeed further afield, France rose to top of the pile - good roads, good weather, some iconic climbs and relatively easy to get to from Cardiff once I bridged down to the south coast for a ferry port. France is inextricably intertwined with cycling too, the lore of the Tour looms large in any cycling conversation and I was looking forward to taking on some of the hallowed routes.
How did it go?
It was spectacular - everything I hoped for and more. France is a dream to cycle through - not because the drivers are better (because they are not) but because you can route through deserted D-xx roads where you are the only traffic. Or get onto a dedicated cycleway that runs for 50km in the direction you need to go. The weather was glorious - an hour of rain each of the first 4 days in France, then a mini-heatwave.. Not withstanding some very dodgy brakes, the bike held up well. Just one puncture which failed to seal so I had to put in a tube - nothing else. I started this tour with some aches and pains (hamstring op inbound..) but actually cycled my way into some form as the days rolled by. By the end of the trip I was fitter than the start and had banked some amazing scenes and experiences. in other words.. job jobbed!
Here’s the interactive version generated by the Python code - click on the stars to see day-by-day stats..
17-Day Ride Summary
| Day | Distance_km | Time_h | AvgSpeed_kmh | Calories | Elevation_m |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 110.159 | 4.37766 | 25.1638 | 2428 | 903 |
| 2 | 123.841 | 4.83427 | 25.6173 | 2829 | 1024 |
| 3 | 125.041 | 5.12736 | 24.3871 | 2789 | 713 |
| 4 | 126.462 | 4.72023 | 26.7915 | 3015 | 1267 |
| 5 | 99.7562 | 3.83853 | 25.9881 | 2169 | 702 |
| 6 | 107.662 | 4.14295 | 25.9869 | 2144 | 347 |
| 7 | 132.391 | 5.11967 | 25.8593 | 3025 | 462 |
| 8 | 87.2415 | 3.39226 | 25.7178 | 2074 | 355 |
| 9 | 122.854 | 4.6074 | 26.6645 | 2999 | 792 |
| 10 | 125.515 | 5.0888 | 24.6649 | 2881 | 988 |
| 11 | 73.1984 | 2.95506 | 24.7705 | 1416 | 204 |
| 12 | 86.0449 | 3.39758 | 25.3254 | 2030 | 199 |
| 13 | 49.9336 | 2.10317 | 23.7421 | 1153 | 398 |
| 14 | 28.5901 | 1.19436 | 23.9376 | 735 | 351 |
| 15 | 103.279 | 6.19567 | 16.6696 | 4131 | 3391 |
| 16 | 53.2573 | 2.10969 | 25.2441 | 924 | 103 |
| 17 | 92.2416 | 3.87759 | 23.7884 | 1890 | 716 |
Day 1: Cardiff - Beckington
First day of the tour was the last day of a scorching heatwave for the UK. My goal today was Beckington, a pretty little town about halfway between Cardiff and Portsmouth.
After a lot of faffing at the house including going back in and checking everything was off 3 times, rolled out of Cardiff on the Newport road and onto the A48. Made good progress and got some nasty close passes in and Newport - probably coke heads and drunks just going about their business knowing Newport. Once over the Severn bridge I had to tack south and negotiate Bristol which had a big road closure but actually the traffic itself was ok. Through some gloriously cool tunnels on the Bristol - Bath old railway line and then busier roads to Beckington - the A36 and A38 I think. Encountered a few wanker drivers here too, but not as close as Newport. Get to the hotel in good time and have a nice chicken katsu curry for dinner. Day 1 in the bag and we’re up and running.
Day 2: Beckington - Portsmouth
Day 2 is already 10 degrees cooler - 34 down to 24 which is a perfect temp. The direct route to Portsmouth is a very fast and busy A-road with a healthy quotient of knobhead drivers so the order of the day is country lanes to the east and west of the direct southerly route, but always trending south. Get to Portsmouth and stop at a Screwfix to buy a hi-vis vest because (a) the checkin email said I needed it, and (b) Irish Ferries almost took my bike off me last year without it. At check-in the guy has no information whatsoever about hi-vis vests and told me I shouldn’t have bothered. About an hour wait to board, got some good photos of Royal Navy T45 destroyers and one of the aircraft carriers tied up. Then all the car alarms went off and I could hear them from my cabin. That’s the last thing I remember - woke up 6 hours later, best ferry crossing I’ve had in years!
Day 3: Saint Malo - Notre-Dame-du-Touchet (Mortain Bocage)
Didn’t get breakfast onboard, so stopped at a Lidl to replenish and then again at a cafe for a morning coffee. Straight out the gate, the roads are better than the UK. I wouldn’t necessarily say the drivers are though. All this talk about french drivers loving and respecting cyclists is merde. I’m tootling along the polders east of St Malo when I start seeing road signage for Mont St Michel which rings a bell. After a quick search I immediately recognise the iconic silhouette and divert to get there. Didn’t realise I’d be so close to it! The tide is out so I can cycle right up to it and get a great photograph. Stopped close by to have a nice pepperoni pizza and coke + coffee - a staple. The day gets quite warm in the afternoon and my chambre d’hote has a nice swimming pool to cool down in, but not before I sit on the bed and collapse it - and I’ve been watching my diet for this trip and all!
Day 4: Notre-Dame-du-Touchet (Mortain Bocage) - Coulonges-sur-Sarthe
It’s hot again and after a decent breakfast it’s time to hit the road. My rusty french is under serious pressure because when staying at a chambre d’hôte, it is customary to have a bit of a chat with the host. Last night it was PSG vs Arsenal so I had to discuss (a) the riots, (b) immigration and trends in immigration between 2006 and 2026, (c) Brexit, (d) the French election next year and (e) long distance cycling. Bit of an upgrade from “le chomage and le fumer” from my lessons! Today I stumble on a glorious chateau at Carrouges and a pink-tagged Sherman tank guarding a crossroads from the July 1944 offensive. 1,250 metres of climbing but nothing ever strenuous, just lumps. At the end, I gatecrash a pretty serious bike race and have to do a fair old clip to avoid being swamped by the peloton. Lodgings tonight are in an old country house with my bedroom straight out of the 17th century. Cool though, and sleep well.
Day 5: Coulonges-sur-Sarthe - Bonneval
A crowing cock kicks off about 6 am and then cycles on and off until I get up at 8. Decent breakfast again and on we go. The destination today is Bonneval, on “la Loire”, which is a tributary of “le Loire”. Not confusing at all. I’m sure that I’m absolutely murdering masculine, feminine and neutral pronouns as I cycle through France but everyone I speak to seems delighted that I’m just giving it a go. They all assume I’m English and if I do a good job in French I make sure to tell them I’m Irish, otherwise I just let them think they’re talking to a thick Anglais. Every town I go through no matter how big or small has a ‘Mairie’ or town hall, some of them are very pretty so get a few pics. About 25 km out, get onto the D27 - a nice, fast, flat road with a tailwind. Good because it’s getting hot and I want to get off the bike. Roll into town and into the digs.
Day 6: Bonneval - Sully-sur-Loire
Last night had a 4 course meal with cheese and dessert so feel like a barrel getting on the bike today. Goal is Sully on the Loire but the big deal should be wicking through Orléans and getting my first glimpse of the Loire! Orléans is very picturesque and I spot a McDonalds which I quite fancy. As I lock up with my utterly useless lock, I spot some gypsies stop and start to eye up my bike and bags. Fuck that I’m not losing everything on Day 6, so I unlock - as I do, they just amble on not even trying to hide their previous intent. About half a mile later I spot a boulangerie where I can eat with my bike. Then it’s time to follow the Loire southeast to Sully for a well-deserved dinner.
Day 7: Sully-sur-Loire - Marzy
Teeth felt weird brushing last night and I realised that somehow I’ve cracked one of them and I’m now flying with 3.5 main front teeth instead of the usual quota of 4. No pain but I can whistle through it which keeps me amused like a child for about an hour on the bike. Route around my first big nuclear powerplant and puncture right beside it. Tubeless won’t seal (tubeless is shit) and I run a lithium-ion compressor which has 2 full inflations in it. I don’t want to faff trying to get it to seal so I just bung a TPU tube straight in and get back on the road. Today really marks the start of an interesting game which is “how many bridges can I cross today?”. Apart from the puncture though, it’s a straightforward day and arrive into Marzy in good shape.
Day 8: Marzy - Diou
Distance-wise at least I’ll roll over the half-way mark today! Leaving Marzy gets me onto the Loire canal path which is a dream to cycle on. Get my half-way pic at a set of lock gates, then negotiate pod after pod after pod of French schoolkids out for a cycle. I’ve discovered this yoghurt drink and have been quaffing it everyday. It’s a belter and along with the nutella biscuits I discovered on day three, my nutrition is beyond reproach.
Day 9: Diou - Rozier-en-Donzy
A little bit more climbing today, even though the first 40km is still on the pan-flat canal path. The days are starting to merge together at this point - petit dejeuner at the chambre d’hôte -> hit the road -> lunch -> get to the next chambre d’hote. But it’s a nice rhythm - this tour isn’t some mad endurance event, it’s a holiday and I’m enjoying the slow pace and scenery.
The place I’m staying at has sublime food - either the chef or the front-of-house lady is a 5-star cook. Unfortunately however, she’s not really a people person. At breakfast she’s cracking on about her own home-made chocolate spread to which I reply “Comme Nutella?”. Immediately insulted, she rolls her eyes to the dutch couple the next table over as if to say - My God, who is this philistine who doesn’t know the difference between nutella and my pâtes à tartiner?! Given that this couple managed to lock themselves out of the B&B last night I’m not too arsed what they think. The chocolate spread does taste exceedingly nice though on fresh, crusty bread. Just lose the attitude love.
Day 10: Rozier-en-Donzy - Beausemblant
Big day today! Getting close to Lyon AND transitioning away from the Loire and onto the Rhone. Traffic picks up noticeably on the approach to Lyon until I arc away from it. The supermarkets don’t fall kindly for me so it’s a 5 km detour to find a Carrefour. Supermarkets mean that I’m eating stuff like pain au chocolat / pain aux raisins instead of a proper sandwich but I refill both bottles, get a bag of sweets and the usual yoghurt as well. Very hot today - 30+ and feels like it too. My front brakes are shot, by the sounds of it I’m grinding metal on metal and a hotel maintenance session is in my very near future. Luckily I bought new pads in Southampton back in the UK - I’m just worried about pushing the pistons back fully without proper tools..
Day 11: Beausemblant - Le Pouzin
On the “ViaRhona” today. As it’s a Sunday there isn’t much (if anything) open after 12:30 so I find a Lidl early doors and fill my boots. Very hot again today.
Staying in a series of chambre d’hotes is funny because it brings you into close proximity to a french family for an arrival, a night and a breakfast. I’ve already mentioned the upgrade this naturally forces to speaking french (as well as watching a french news channel with a streaming ticker on the bottom of the screen) but it also means that you share their lives for this short interlude. Teenage kids banging doors, how they prepare breakfast, dogs and cats checking out the latest mystery arrival. It’s very different to cycling through the US for example and staying in hotels / motels.
Day 12: Le Pouzin - Mornas
Le Pouzin is the one and only hotel on this trip and has a dedicated bike room so I decide to tackle the brakes after dinner. When I arrived, mine was the only bike but after dinner, there are loads in there. I love my Merida (Scultura Endurance 9000) but if there is one weak point, it’s the SRAM Force brakes - specifically the fronts. I don’t know what it is, but they are temperamental as fuck, always rubbing or squealing or some shit. The current pads are completely smoked and I feel guilty about leaving them in so long. They’re only 2 months old (from when I bled the brakes back in Cardiff) but obviously poor quality. The pistons are fully pronounced to compensate for missing pad material and I have a battle royale with my trusty multi-tool to push them back. I sacrifice the old pads and lever against them and the end result actually works quite well - no rubbing. But I’m not fooled, this front caliper / rotor combo is never truly happy. In truth it probably needs a full refresh.
Day 13: Mornas - Bédoin
Today is the last day before a rest day tomorrow, which in truth I don’t really need. The pace has been more than sensible all the way down. Still though, it’s hot on the bike (nowhere near as hot as it would get just two weeks later though!). It’s only 50k or so today and I stop at Orange to get some pics of the extensive Roman ruins there - very impressive. Mont Ventoux swings into view early on and it looks more and more impressive the closer I get to Bedoin. It stands alone on the skyline - not really part of a mountain range. Gulp. Bedoin is very pretty and twee, although a beehive has invaded the vines in my gite. They’re not bothered by me at all though, and after eating I settle in for the night.
Day 14: Bédoin - Bédoin (Little Legwarmer)
[TODO: Day 14 narrative.]
Day 15: Mont Ventoux from Bedoin and Malaucène
The alarm goes off at 04:50 and after a fitful night sleep, I feel like complete shit. Start forcing down the carbs as today is all about fuelling and set off from Bédoin at 05:55. The goal today is the Cingle - complete all 3 ascents of Ventoux in one sitting - from Bédoin, Malaucène and Sault. The first two climbs are the hardest, the third is a done deal really. There is a segment of 4km on the second climb at a sustained 12% with no let-up that I know is going to be tough. I’m hoping to hold about 200 - 210 watts on each climb and each climb is about 21 km long. It’s just very different to any kind of climbing I’ve done before and you don’t want to blow up or under-eat. The road is very quiet - I think I’m the first cyclist to leave Bedoin.
Meet Jon and Jack coming the other way - we’ve all decided to go round at our own pace today. To be honest, now I feel great. Gradient is 6 - 7% and no bother at all. 200 watts is easy, in fact it’s hard to stay there and not pull harder. Eventually I get to Chalet Reynard and I feel like the climb is over but still 6k to go. Now the headwinds kick in on the exposed slopes but I reach the top without drama. Quick chat with Jon who caught me just at the top and then descend into Malaucène.
On the descent my front brakes are NOT happy and the noise and juddering is off-putting to say the least. The noise gets so bad I come to a complete stop and check them. They are red-hot but still working, just extremely noisy. I don’t want to catapult myself in spectacular fashion over Ventoux on the way down..
In Malaucène, stock up on water and pastries, an unplanned toilet break and then go again. The climb is roughly the same as the Bedoin side until I hit the 4km stretch - it is a right stinker, no levelling out at all. Have to hold 250 watts to spin through it but eventually it comes to an end and the next 7% section feels pan flat! Jack must have passed me in Malaucène and I catch up with him about 5 km from the top. A brief chat and then I push on to the summit.
More headwinds at the top and I’m feeling completely elated. The two hard ones are done! The Sault ascent is a piece of cake!
I’ve run out of water but it’s a descent all the way into Sault for another food stop. But then, the luck of the Irish (or the shit software of the Coros) deserts me - the Coros decides that I’m on the homeward leg and simply elides the turn off to Sault at Chalet Reynard. 10 minutes later I’m 1,000m down just outside Bédoin and I know I’ve fucked up bad.
Decide to tack over to Sault at the base of the mountain to tackle the final ascent but 5k in realise that this is a 27km leg with 800m climbing to get to Sault on bad roads. Started to panic a little bit too and have been doing 350 watts trying to make up time - not good. And I’m out of water! The only sensible way is to retrace, refuel in Bédoin and climb up to Chalet Reynard and take the turn I should have taken on the descent. This will be 1,000m extra climbing and about 20km total.
And that’s when I realise the day is over - two ascents is good enough for me. I don’t want to test the brakes anymore than I already have and this has been an epic tour so far. The Cingle eluded me due to shit Chinese software (my acidic review of the Coros is a whole other post by itself). It’s still a great day out and I respect the history and tradition of Ventoux - it’s a climbers climb.
Day 16: Bédoin - Plan-d’Orgon
Today was planned to be deliberately short after the climbing exploits yesterday but that’s not necessary at all - the legs feel fine and fresh. As I put Ventoux in the rear-view mirror, it’s a descent and then flat along an excellent cycle path. Very warm again today - 30+. In two weeks time, temps here will reach 40+ under the heatdome so in hindsight I was quite lucky. On arrival, the chambre d’hôte has quite possibly the best pool of all the accoms on this trip - it is sublime. No aircon though and a cat that is desperate to get into my room so it’s door shut and fan on full for the night.
Day 17: Plan-d’Orgon - Marseille baby! End of tour!
The final day! It’s a flat run into Marseille and the route runs alongside a very busy autoroute (the A12?) going into Marseille. I’m on a quiet road looking down on all the traffic whizzing by making good progress. Today is a Sunday so the usual protocol is to get to a supermarket by 12:30 and stock up. Pass under a magnificent three-tier bridge that I’m sure I recognise from photos and the countryside slowly gives way to urban sprawl. All of a sudden I’m in a street with Tunisian restaurants / takeaways, then Moroccan, then Algerian. The Maghreb influence is very strong in Marseille and it shows. The drivers are mental and I take up an assertive position on the road. The traffic is heavy so I filter left and right to get ahead of bad drivers. My goal is La basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde high up overlooking Marseille / the vieux port. It’s a spicy climb to get up there and the bottom bracket is groaning badly. Tourists keep looking around to see what the noise is but it’s gotten me this far. And I’m there! Ask a guy to take my photo in french and he tells me he’s from Limerick and is “absolutely fucking melting”. What a coincidence! The view is stunning and it’s a fitting end to a fantastic tour. 1,640 km, 12,950 metres of climbing - a decent shift.