Cycling across France: Cardiff - Portsmouth -> Saint Malo - Marseille
Goal
And so it’s time for the Summer 2026 tour. After considering Spain, France rose to top of the pile - good roads, good weather, some iconic climbs and relatively easy to get to from Cardiff once I bridged down to the south coast for a ferry port.
How did it go?
It was spectacular - everything I hoped for and more. France is a dream to cycle through - not because the drivers are better (because they are not) but because you can route through deserted D-xx roads where you are the only traffic. Or get onto a dedicated cycleway that runs for 50km in the direction you need to go. The weather was glorious - an hour of rain each of the first 4 days in France, then a mini-heatwave.. Not withstanding some very dodgy brakes, the bike held up well. Just one puncture which failed to seal so I had to put in a tube - nothing else.
Here’s the interactive version generated by the Python code - click on the stars to see day-by-day stats..
17-Day Ride Summary
| Day | Distance_km | Time_h | AvgSpeed_kmh | Calories | Elevation_m |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 110.159 | 4.37766 | 25.1638 | 2428 | 903 |
| 2 | 123.841 | 4.83427 | 25.6173 | 2829 | 1024 |
| 3 | 125.041 | 5.12736 | 24.3871 | 2789 | 713 |
| 4 | 126.462 | 4.72023 | 26.7915 | 3015 | 1267 |
| 5 | 99.7562 | 3.83853 | 25.9881 | 2169 | 702 |
| 6 | 107.662 | 4.14295 | 25.9869 | 2144 | 347 |
| 7 | 132.391 | 5.11967 | 25.8593 | 3025 | 462 |
| 8 | 87.2415 | 3.39226 | 25.7178 | 2074 | 355 |
| 9 | 122.854 | 4.6074 | 26.6645 | 2999 | 792 |
| 10 | 125.515 | 5.0888 | 24.6649 | 2881 | 988 |
| 11 | 73.1984 | 2.95506 | 24.7705 | 1416 | 204 |
| 12 | 86.0449 | 3.39758 | 25.3254 | 2030 | 199 |
| 13 | 49.9336 | 2.10317 | 23.7421 | 1153 | 398 |
| 14 | 28.5901 | 1.19436 | 23.9376 | 735 | 351 |
| 15 | 103.279 | 6.19567 | 16.6696 | 4131 | 3391 |
| 16 | 53.2573 | 2.10969 | 25.2441 | 924 | 103 |
| 17 | 92.2416 | 3.87759 | 23.7884 | 1890 | 716 |
Day 1: Cardiff - Beckington
First day of the tour was the last day of a scorching heatwave for the UK. My goal today was Beckington, a pretty little town about halfway between Cardiff and Portsmouth.
After a lot of faffing at the house including going back in and checking everything was off 3 times, rolled out of Cardiff on the Newport road and onto the A48. Made good progress and got some nasty close passes in and Newport - probably coke heads and drunks just going about their business knowing Newport. Once over the Severn bridge I had to tack south and negotiate Bristol which had a big road closure but actually the traffic itself was ok. Through some gloriously cool tunnels on the Bristol - Bath old railway line and then busier roads to Beckington - the A36 and A38 I think. Encountered a few wanker drivers here too, but not as close as Newport. Get to the hotel in good time and have a nice chicken katsu curry for dinner. Day 1 in the bag and we’re up and running.
Day 2: Beckington - Portsmouth
Day 2 is already 10 degrees cooler - 34 down to 24 which is a perfect temp. The direct route to Portsmouth is a very fast and busy A-road with a healthy quotient of knobhead drivers so the order of the day is country lanes to the east and west of the direct southerly route, but always trending south. Get to Portsmouth and stop at a Screwfix to buy a hi-vis vest because (a) the checkin email said I needed it, and (b) Irish Ferries almost took my bike off me last year without it. At check-in the guy has no information whatsoever about hi-vis vests and told me I shouldn’t have bothered. About an hour wait to board, got some good photos of Royal Navy T45 destroyers and one of the aircraft carriers tied up. Then all the car alarms went off and I could hear them from my cabin. That’s the last thing I remember - woke up 6 hours later, best ferry crossing I’ve had in years!
Day 3: Saint Malo - Notre-Dame-du-Touchet (Mortain Bocage)
Didn’t get breakfast onboard, so stopped at a Lidl to replenish and then again at a cafe for a morning coffee. Straight out the gate, the roads are better than the UK. I wouldn’t necessarily say the drivers are though. All this talk about french drivers loving and respecting cyclists is merde. I’m tootling along the polders east of St Malo when I start seeing road signage for Mont St Michel which rings a bell. After a quick search I immediately recognise the iconic silhouette and immediately come off my route to get there. Didn’t realise I’d be so close to it! The tide is out so I can cycle right up to it and get a great photograph. Stopped close by to have a nice pepperoni pizza and coke + coffee - a staple. The day gets quite warm in the afternoon and my chambre d’hote has a nice swimming pool to cool down in, but not before I sit on the bed and collapse it - and I’ve been watching my diet for this trip and all!
Day 4: Notre-Dame-du-Touchet (Mortain Bocage) - Coulonges-sur-Sarthe
[TODO: Day 4 narrative.]
Day 5: Coulonges-sur-Sarthe - Bonneval
[TODO: Day 5 narrative.]
Day 6: Bonneval - Sully-sur-Loire
[TODO: Day 6 narrative.]
Day 7: Sully-sur-Loire - Marzy
[TODO: Day 7 narrative.]
Day 8: Marzy - Diou
[TODO: Day 8 narrative.]
Day 9: Diou - Rozier-en-Donzy
[TODO: Day 9 narrative.]
Day 10: Rozier-en-Donzy - Beausemblant
[TODO: Day 10 narrative.]
Day 11: Beausemblant - Le Pouzin
[TODO: Day 11 narrative.]
Day 12: Le Pouzin - Mornas
[TODO: Day 12 narrative.]
Day 13: Mornas - Bédoin
[TODO: Day 13 narrative.]
Day 14: Bédoin - Bédoin (Little Legwarmer)
[TODO: Day 14 narrative.]
Day 15: Mont Ventoux from Bedoin and Malaucène
[TODO: Day 15 narrative.]
Day 16: Bédoin - Plan-d’Orgon
[TODO: Day 16 narrative.]
Day 17: Plan-d’Orgon - Marseille baby! End of tour!
[TODO: Day 17 narrative.]